ANATOMY OF A HANDMADE SUIT
At Houndstooth we think all great suits start with an impeccable fabric. With over 600 choices, from venerated mills throughout England and Italy, we'll guide you through the fabric selection process. We'll find out your intended uses and needs and find a fabric that works for it all. From ultra silky Super 150's and up to classic British Tweed, let us know what your looking for and we should have something suitable.
The HAND/MADE suit has considerable handwork, and is almost completely hand stitched with the exceptions being the three long seams on the back of the jacket, and the pocketing. I am asked quite frequently, "Why is a hand stitch better than a machine stitch?" My answer is that in most instances a machine stitch is better, but not when were talking about the shoulders and collars of jackets. With a machine stitch you have two pieces of thread that both must have tension on them to sew cleanly. This tension is transferred to the seam when sewed, and will always carry some amount of rigidness. A hand stitch is generally only a single piece of thread, and loops around and through both pieces of fabric, and has little to no tension when completed. This allows the fabric to just fall, and drape properly. It also allows for greater movement of the seams, and will only fit better over time, as the seams settle into your ways of movement. As you move in your jacket this lack of seam tension will make your jacket softer and a good bit more comfortable to wear.
With any suit of any quality a considerable amount of production time is spent on the collar of a jacket. Our HAND/MADE jacket is no different. Entirely stitched by hand, with numerous choices of melton (the fabric under the collar), our collar will sit snugly around your next. We will compensate for slouched or rigid postures to ensure there is no collar gap (when the collar sit away from the neck).
The Barchetta or Chest Pocket
The Barchetta (Italian for "little boat") is a subtle, but classic style in hand made jackets. This detail is only achieved through hand stitching and a signature of handmade suits and sport coats. All HAND/MADE jackets will have this unless we're doing patch pockets, or if you want no pocket at all. The details are up to you, the client.
The buttonhole is a stitch that machinery has never recreated perfectly. Hand worked buttonhole are stronger, more elegant, less damaging to the fabric, and considered the hallmark of delicate tailoring.
The HAND/MADE waistband is made from the highest quality pocketing and trim available on the market. All pairs are cut to size by hand, and include rubber shirts stays. There are numerous configurations available for the closure of the trouser. We will discuss which will work best for each particular application.
While there are numerous shoulder treatments available in the HAND/MADE program, and each has its appropriate application and client, we prefer and recommend the soft constructed slightly rounded silhouette. It gives a lighter more comfortable feel to the entire garments, unlike anything you will find off the rack.